It was the Sunday after Easter, and the last bull-fight of the
season in Mexico City. Four special bulls had been brought
over from Spain for the occasion, since Spanish bulls are
more fiery than Mexican. Perhaps it is the altitude, perhaps
just the spirit of the western Continent which is to blame for
the lack of “pep,” as Owen put it, in the native animal.
Although Owen, who was a great socialist, disapproved of
bull-fights, “We have never seen one. We shall have to
go,” he said.
“Oh yes, I think we must see it,” said Kate.
“And it’s our last chance,” said Owen.
Away he rushed to the place where they sold tickets, to
book seats, and Kate went with him. As she came into the
street, her heart sank. It was as if some little person inside
her were sulking and resisting. Neither she nor Owen spoke
much Spanish, there was a fluster at the ticket place, and an
unpleasant individual came forward to talk American for
them.
It was obvious they ought to buy tickets for the “Shade.”
But they wanted to economise, and Owen said he preferred
to sit among the crowd, therefore, against the resistance of
the ticket man and the onlookers, they bought reserved
seats in the “Sun.”
The show was on Sunday afternoon. All the tram-cars and
the frightful little Ford omnibuses called Camions were
labelled Torero, and were surging away towards Chapultepec.
Kate felt that sudden dark feeling, that she didn’t
want to go.
“I’m not very keen on going,” she said to Owen.
“Oh, but why not? I don’t believe in them on principle,
but we’ve never seen one, so we shall have to go.”
Owen was an American, Kate was Irish. “Never having
seen one” meant “having to go.” But it was American
logic rather than Irish, and Kate only let herself be overcome.
Villiers of course was keen. But then he too was American,
and he too had never seen one, and being younger, more
than anybody he had to go.
They got into a Ford taxi and went. The busted car
careered away down the wide dismal street of asphalt and
stone and Sunday dreariness. Stone buildings in Mexico
have a peculiar hard, dry dreariness.
The taxi drew up in a side street under the big iron scaffolding
of the stadium. In the gutters, rather lousy men
were selling pulque and sweets, cakes, fruit, and greasy food.
Crazy motor-cars rushed up and hobbled away. Little
soldiers in washed-out cotton uniforms, pinky drab, hung
around an entrance. Above all loomed the network iron
frame of the huge, ugly stadium.
Kate felt she was going to prison. But Owen excitedly
surged to the entrance that corresponded to his ticket. In
the depths of him, he too didn’t want to go. But he was a
born American, and if anything was on show, he had to
see it. That was “Life.”
The man who took the tickets at the entrance, suddenly,
as they were passing in, stood in front of Owen, put both
his hands on Owen’s chest and pawed down the front of
Owen’s body. Owen started, bridled, transfixed for a moment.
The fellow stood aside. Kate remained petrified.
Then Owen jerked into a smiling composure as the man
waved them on. “Feeling for fire-arms!” he said, rolling
his eyes with pleased excitement at Kate.
But she had not got over the shock of horror, fearing the
fellow might paw her.
They emerged out of a tunnel in the hollow of the concrete-and-iron
amphitheatre. A real gutter-lout came to look at
their counterslips, to see which seats they had booked. He
jerked his head downwards, and slouched off. Now Kate
knew she was in a trap—a big concrete beetle trap.
They dropped down the concrete steps till they were only
three tiers from the bottom. That was their row. They
were to sit on the concrete, with a loop of thick iron between
each numbered seat. This was a reserved place in the
“Sun.”
Kate sat gingerly between her two iron loops, and looked
vaguely around.
“I think it’s thrilling!” she said.
Like most modern people, she had a will-to-happiness.
“Isn’t it thrilling,” cried Owen, whose will-to-happiness
was almost a mania. “Don’t you think so, Bud?”
“Why, yes, I think it may be,” said Villiers, non-committal.
But then Villiers was young, he was only over twenty,
while Owen was over forty. The younger generation calculates
its “happiness” in a more business-like fashion.
Villiers was out after a thrill, but he wasn’t going to say
he’d got one till he’d got it. Kate and Owen—Kate was
also nearly forty—must enthuse a thrill, out of a sort of
politeness to the great Show-man, Providence.
“Look here!” said Owen. “Supposing we try to protect
our extremity on this concrete—” and thoughtfully he
folded his rain-coat and laid it along the concrete ledge so
that both he and Kate could sit on it.
They sat and gazed around. They were early. Patches
of people mottled the concrete slope opposite, like eruptions.
The ring just below was vacant, neatly sanded; and above
the ring, on the encircling concrete, great advertisements for
hats, with a picture of a city-man’s straw hat, and advertisements
for spectacles, with pairs of spectacles supinely folded,
glared and shouted.
“Where is the ‘Shade’ then?” said Owen, twisting his
neck.
At the top of the amphitheatre, near the sky, were concrete
boxes. This was the “Shade,” where anybody who
was anything sat.
“Oh but,” said Kate, “I don’t want to be perched right
up there, so far away.”
“Why no!” said Owen. “We’re much better where we
are, in our ‘Sun,’ which isn’t going to shine a great deal
after all.”
The sky was cloudy, preparing for the rainy season.
It was nearly three o’clock in the afternoon, and the
crowd was filling in, but still only occupied patches of the
bare concrete. The lower tiers were reserved, so the bulk of
the people sat in the midway levels, and gentry like our
trio were more or less isolated.
But the audience was already a mob, mostly of fattish
town men in black tight suits and little straw hats, and a
mixing-in of the dark-faced labourers in big hats. The men
in black suits were probably employees and clerks and factory
hands. Some had brought their women, in sky-blue
chiffon with brown chiffon hats and faces powdered to look
like white marshmallows. Some were families with two or
three children.
The fun began. The game was to snatch the hard straw
hat off some fellow’s head, and send it skimming away down
the slope of humanity, where some smart bounder down
below would catch it and send it skimming across in another
direction. There were shouts of jeering pleasure from the
mass, which rose almost to a yell as seven straw hats were
skimming, meteor-like, at one moment across the slope of
people.
“Look at that!” said Owen. “Isn’t that fun!”
“No,” said Kate, her little alter ego speaking out for
once, in spite of her will-to-happiness. “No, I don’t like it.
I really hate common people.”
As a socialist, Owen disapproved, and as a happy man, he
was disconcerted. Because his own real self, as far as he had
any left, hated common rowdiness just as much as Kate did.
“It’s awfully smart though!” he said, trying to laugh in
sympathy with the mob. “There now, see that!”
“Yes, it’s quite smart, but I’m glad it’s not my hat,”
said Villiers.
“Oh, it’s all in the game,” said Owen largely.
But he was uneasy. He was wearing a big straw hat of
native make, conspicuous in the comparative isolation of the
lower tiers. After a lot of fidgeting, he took off this hat and
put it on his knees. But unfortunately he had a very definitely
bald spot on a sunburnt head.
Behind, above, sat a dense patch of people in the unreserved
section. Already they were throwing things. Bum!
came an orange, aimed at Owen’s bald spot, and hitting him
on the shoulder. He glared round rather ineffectually
through his big shell spectacles.
“I’d keep my hat on if I were you,” said the cold voice
of Villiers.
“Yes, I think perhaps it’s wiser,” said Owen, with assumed
nonchalance, putting on his hat again.
Whereupon a banana skin rattled on Villiers’ tidy and
ladylike little panama. He glared round coldly, like a bird
that would stab with its beak if it got the chance, but which
would fly away at the first real menace.
“How I detest them!” said Kate.
A diversion was created by the entrance, opposite, of the
military bands, with their silver and brass instruments under
their arms. There were three sets. The chief band climbed
and sat on the right, in the big bare tract of concrete reserved
for the Authorities. These musicians wore dark grey
uniforms trimmed with rose colour, and made Kate feel almost
re-assured, as if it were Italy and not Mexico City. A
silver band in pale buff uniforms sat opposite our party, high
up across the hollow distance, and still a third “musica”
threaded away to the left, on the remote scattered hillside
of the amphitheatre. The newspapers had said that the
President would attend. But the Presidents are scarce at
bull-fights in Mexico, nowadays.
There sat the bands, in as much pomp as they could
muster, but they did not begin to play. Great crowds now
patched the slopes, but there were still bare tracts, especially
in the Authorities’ section. Only a little distance above
Kate’s row was a mass of people, as it were impending; a
very uncomfortable sensation.
It was three o’clock, and the crowds had a new diversion.
The bands, due to strike up at three, still sat there in lordly
fashion, sounding not a note.
“La musica! La musica!” shouted the mob, with the
voice of mob authority. They were the People, and the
revolutions had been their revolutions, and they had won
them all. The bands were their bands, present for their
amusement.
But the bands were military bands, and it was the army
which had won all the revolutions. So the revolutions were
their revolutions, and they were present for their own glory
alone.
Musica pagada toca mal tono.
Spasmodically, the insolent yelling of the mob rose and
subsided. La musica! La musica! The shout became
brutal and violent. Kate always remembered it. La musica!
The band peacocked its nonchalance. The shouting was a
great yell: the degenerate mob of Mexico City!
At length, at its own leisure, the band in grey with dark
rose facings struck up: crisp, martial, smart.
“That’s fine!” said Owen. “But that’s really good!
And it’s the first time I’ve heard a good band in Mexico, a
band with any backbone.”
The music was smart, but it was brief. The band seemed
scarcely to have started, when the piece was over. The
musicians took their instruments from their mouths with a
gesture of dismissal. They played just to say they’d played,
making it as short as possible.
Musica pagada toca mal tono.
There was a ragged interval, then the silver band piped up.
And at last it was half-past three, or more.
Whereupon, at some given signal, the masses in the
middle, unreserved seats, suddenly burst and rushed down
on to the lowest, reserved seats. It was a crash like a burst
reservoir, and the populace in black Sunday suits poured
down round and about our astonished, frightened trio. And
in two minutes it was over. Without any pushing or shoving.
Everybody careful, as far as possible, not to touch anybody
else. You don’t elbow your neighbour if he’s got a
pistol on his hip and a knife at his belly. So all the seats
in the lower tiers filled in one rush, like the flowing of water.
Kate now sat among the crowd. But her seat, fortunately,
was above one of the track-ways that went round the
arena, so at least she would not have anybody sitting between
her knees.
Men went uneasily back and forth along this gangway
past the feet, wanting to get in next their friends, but never
venturing to ask. Three seats away, on the same row, sat
a Polish bolshevist fellow who had met Owen. He leaned
over and asked the Mexican next to Owen if he might change
seats with him. “No,” said the Mexican. “I’ll sit in my
own seat.”
“Muy bien, Señor, muy bien!” said the Pole.
The show did not begin, and men like lost mongrels still
prowled back and forth on the track that was next step down
from Kate’s feet. They began to take advantage of the
ledge on which rested the feet of our party, to squat there.
Down sat a heavy fellow, plumb between Owen’s knees.
“I hope they won’t sit on my feet,” said Kate anxiously.
“We won’t let them,” said Villiers, with bird-like decision.
“Why don’t you shove him off, Owen? Shove him
off?”
And Villiers glared at the Mexican fellow ensconced between
Owen’s legs. Owen flushed, and laughed uncomfortably.
He was not good at shoving people off. The Mexican began
to look round at the three angry white people.
And in another moment, another fat Mexican in a black
suit and a little black hat was lowering himself into Villiers’
foot-space. But Villiers was too quick for him. He quickly
brought his feet together under the man’s sinking posterior,
so the individual subsided uncomfortably on to a pair of
boots, and at the same time felt a hand shoving him quietly
but determinedly on the shoulder.
“No!” Villiers was saying in good American. “This
place is for my feet! Get off! You get off!”
And he continued, quietly but very emphatically, to push
the Mexican’s shoulder, to remove him.
The Mexican half raised himself, and looked round murderously
at Villiers. Physical violence was being offered, and
the only retort was death. But the young American’s face
was so cold and abstract, only the eyes showing a primitive,
bird-like fire, that the Mexican was nonplussed. And Kate’s
eyes were blazing with Irish contempt.
The fellow struggled with his Mexican city-bred inferiority
complex. He muttered an explanation in Spanish that he was
only sitting there for a moment, till he could join his friends—waving
his hand towards a lower tier. Villiers did not
understand a word, but he reiterated:
“I don’t care what it is. This place is for my feet, and
you don’t sit there.”
Oh, home of liberty! Oh, land of the free! Which of these
two men was to win in the struggle for conflicting liberty?
Was the fat fellow free to sit between Villiers’ feet, or was
Villiers free to keep his foot-space?
There are all sorts of inferiority complex, and the city
Mexican has a very strong sort, that makes him all the more
aggressive, once it is roused. Therefore the intruder lowered
his posterior with a heavy, sudden bounce on Villiers’ feet,
and Villiers, out of very distaste, had had to extricate his
feet from such a compression. The young man’s face went
white at the nostrils, and his eyes took on that bright
abstract look of pure democratic anger. He pushed the fat
shoulders more decisively, repeating:
“Go away! Go away! You’re not to sit there.”
The Mexican, on his own ground, and heavy on his own
base, let himself be shoved, oblivious.
“Insolence!” said Kate loudly. “Insolence!”
She glared at the fat back in the shoddily-fitting black
coat, which looked as if a woman dressmaker had made it,
with loathing. How could any man’s coat-collar look so
home-made, so en famille!
Villiers remained with a fixed, abstract look on his thin
face, rather like a death’s head. All his American will was
summoned up, the bald eagle of the north bristling in every
feather. The fellow should not sit there.—But how to remove
him?
The young man sat tense with will to annihilate his beetle-like
intruder, and Kate used all her Irish malice to help
him.
“Don’t you wonder who was his tailor?” she asked, with
a flicker in her voice.
Villiers looked at the femalish black coat of the Mexican,
and made an arch grimace at Kate.
“I should say he hadn’t one. Perhaps did it himself.”
“Very likely!” Kate laughed venomously.
It was too much. The man got up and betook himself,
rather diminished, to another spot.
“Triumph!” said Kate. “Can’t you do the same,
Owen?”
Owen laughed uncomfortably, glancing down at the man
between his knees as he might glance at a dog with rabies,
when it had its back to him.
“Apparently not yet, unfortunately,” he said, with some
constraint, turning his nose away again from the Mexican,
who was using him as a sort of chair-back.
There was an exclamation. Two horsemen in gay uniforms
and bearing long staffs had suddenly ridden into the ring.
They went round the arena, then took up their posts, sentry-wise,
on either side the tunnel entrance through which they
had come in.
In marched a little column of four toreadors wearing tight
uniforms plastered with silver embroidery. They divided,
and marched smartly in opposite directions, two and two,
around the ring, till they came to the place facing the section
of the Authorities, where they made their salute.
So this was a bull-fight! Kate already felt a chill of disgust.
In the seats of the Authorities were very few people, and
certainly no sparkling ladies in high tortoise-shell combs and
lace mantillas. A few common-looking people, bourgeois
with not much taste, and a couple of officers in uniform.
The President had not come.
There was no glamour, no charm. A few commonplace
people in an expanse of concrete were the elect, and below,
four grotesque and effeminate looking fellows in tight, ornate
clothes were the heroes. With their rather fat posteriors
and their squiffs of pigtails and their clean-shaven faces,
they looked like eunuchs, or women in tight pants, these
precious toreadors.
The last of Kate’s illusions concerning bull-fights came
down with a flop. These were the darlings of the mob?
These were the gallant toreadors! Gallant? Just about as
gallant as assistants in a butcher’s shop. Lady-killers?
Ugh!
There was an Ah! of satisfaction from the mob. Into the
ring suddenly rushed a smallish, dun-coloured bull with long
flourishing horns. He ran out, blindly, as if from the dark,
probably thinking that now he was free. Then he stopped
short, seeing he was not free, but surrounded in an unknown
way. He was utterly at a loss.
A toreador came forward and switched out a pink cloak
like a fan not far from the bull’s nose. The bull gave a
playful little prance, neat and pretty, and charged mildly
on the cloak. The toreador switched the cloak over the
animal’s head, and the neat little bull trotted on round the
ring, looking for a way to get out.
Seeing the wooden barrier around the arena, finding he
was able to look over it, he thought he might as well take
the leap. So over he went into the corridor or passage-way
which circled the ring, and in which stood the servants of
the arena.
Just as nimbly, these servants vaulted over the barrier
into the arena, that was now bull-less.
The bull in the gangway trotted inquiringly round till he
came to an opening on to the arena again. So back he
trotted into the ring.
And back into the gangway vaulted the servants, where
they stood again to look on.
The bull trotted waveringly and somewhat irritated. The
toreadors waved their cloaks at him, and he swerved on.
Till his vague course took him to where one of the horsemen
with lances sat motionless on his horse.
Instantly, in a pang of alarm, Kate noticed that the horse
was thickly blindfolded with a black cloth. Yes, and so was
the horse on which sat the other picador.
The bull trotted suspiciously up to the motionless horse
bearing the rider with the long pole; a lean old horse that
would never move till Doomsday, unless someone shoved it.
O shades of Don Quixote! Oh four Spanish horsemen of
the Apocalypse! This was surely one of them.
The picador pulled his feeble horse round slowly, to face
the bull, and slowly he leaned forward and shoved his lance-point
into the bull’s shoulder. The bull, as if the horse were
a great wasp that had stung him deep, suddenly lowered his
head in a jerk of surprise and lifted his horns straight up
into the horse’s abdomen. And without more ado, over went
horse and rider, like a tottering monument upset.
The rider scrambled from under the horse and went running
away with his lance. The old horse, in complete dazed
amazement, struggled to rise, as if overcome with dumb
incomprehension. And the bull, with a red place on his
shoulder welling a trickle of dark blood, stood looking around
in equally hopeless amazement.
But the wound was hurting. He saw the queer sight of the
horse half reared from the ground, trying to get to its feet.
And he smelled blood and bowels.
So rather vaguely, as if not quite knowing what he ought
to do, the bull once more lowered his head and pushed his
sharp, flourishing horns in the horse’s belly, working them
up and down inside there with a sort of vague satisfaction.
Kate had never been taken so completely by surprise in
all her life. She had still cherished some idea of a gallant
show. And before she knew where she was, she was watching
a bull whose shoulders trickled blood goring his horns
up and down inside the belly of a prostrate and feebly
plunging old horse.
The shock almost overpowered her. She had come for a
gallant show. This she had paid to see. Human cowardice
and beastliness, a smell of blood, a nauseous whiff of
bursten bowels! She turned her face away.
When she looked again, it was to see the horse feebly and
dazedly walking out of the ring, with a great ball of its own
entrails hanging out of its abdomen and swinging reddish
against its own legs as it automatically moved.
And once more, the shock of amazement almost made her
lose consciousness. She heard the confused small applause
of amusement from the mob. And that Pole, to whom Owen
had introduced her, leaned over and said to her, in horrible
English:
“Now, Miss Leslie, you are seeing Life! Now you will
have something to write about, in your letters to England.”
She looked at his unwholesome face in complete repulsion,
and wished Owen would not introduce her to such sordid
individuals.
She looked at Owen. His nose had a sharp look, like a
little boy who may make himself sick, but who is watching
at the shambles with all his eyes, knowing it is forbidden.
Villiers, the younger generation, looked intense and
abstract, getting the sensation. He would not even feel sick.
He was just getting the thrill of it, without emotion, coldly
and scientifically, but very intent.
And Kate felt a real pang of hatred against this Americanism
which is coldly and unscrupulously sensational.
“Why doesn’t the horse move? Why doesn’t it run away
from the bull?” she asked in repelled amazement, of Owen.
Owen cleared his throat.
“Didn’t you see? It was blindfolded,” he said.
“But can’t it smell the bull?” she asked.
“Apparently not.—They bring the old wrecks here to
finish them off.—I know it’s awful, but it’s part of the
game.”
How Kate hated phrases like “part of the game.” What
do they mean, anyhow! She felt utterly humiliated, crushed
by a sense of human indecency, cowardice of two-legged
humanity. In this “brave” show she felt nothing but
reeking cowardice. Her breeding and her natural pride were
outraged.
The ring servants had cleaned away the mess and spread
new sand. The toreadors were playing with the bull, unfurling
their foolish cloaks at arm’s length. And the animal,
with the red sore running on his shoulder, foolishly capered
and ran from one rag to the other, here and there.
For the first time, a bull seemed to her a fool. She had
always been afraid of bulls, fear tempered with reverence of
the great Mithraic beast. And now she saw how stupid he
was, in spite of his long horns and his massive maleness.
Blindly and stupidly he ran at the rag, each time, and the
toreadors skipped like fat-hipped girls showing off. Probably
it needed skill and courage, but it looked silly.
Blindly and foolishly the bull ran ducking its horns each
time at the rag, just because the rag fluttered.
“Run at the men, idiot!” said Kate aloud, in her overwrought
impatience. “Run at the men, not at the cloaks.”
“They never do, isn’t it curious!” replied Villiers, with
cool scientific interest. “They say no toreador will face a
cow, because a cow always goes for him instead of the cloak.
If a bull did that there’d be no bull-fights. Imagine it!”
She was bored now. The nimbleness and the skipping
tricks of the toreadors bored her. Even when one of the
banderilleros reared himself on tiptoe, his plump posterior
much in evidence, and from his erectness pushed two razor-sharp
darts with frills at the top into the bull’s shoulder,
neatly and smartly, Kate felt no admiration. One of the
darts fell out, anyway, and the bull ran on with the other
swinging and waggling in another bleeding place.
The bull now wanted to get away, really. He leaped the
fence again, quickly, into the attendants’ gangway. The
attendants vaulted over into the arena. The bull trotted
in the corridor, then nicely leaped back. The attendants
vaulted once more into the corridor. The bull trotted round
the arena, ignoring the toreadors, and leaped once more into
the gangway. Over vaulted the attendants.
Kate was beginning to be amused, now that the mongrel
men were skipping for safety.
The bull was in the ring again, running from cloak to
cloak, foolishly. A banderillero was getting ready with two
more darts. But first another picador put nobly forward on
his blindfolded old horse. The bull ignored this little lot
too, and trotted away again, as if all the time looking for
something, excitedly looking for something. He stood still
and excitedly pawed the ground, as if he wanted something.
A toreador advanced and swung a cloak. Up pranced the
bull, tail in air, and with a prancing bound charged—upon
the rag, of course. The toreador skipped round with a
ladylike skip, then tripped to another point. Very pretty!
The bull, in the course of his trotting and prancing and
pawing, had once more come near the bold picador. The
bold picador shoved forward his ancient steed, leaned forwards,
and pushed the point of his lance in the bull’s
shoulder. The bull looked up, irritated and arrested. What
the devil!
He saw the horse and rider. The horse stood with that
feeble monumentality of a milk horse, patient as if between
the shafts, waiting while his master delivered the milk. How
strange it must have been to him when the bull, giving a
little bound like a dog, ducked its head and dived its horns
upwards into his belly, rolling him over with his rider as one
might push over a hat-stand.
The bull looked with irritable wonder at the incomprehensible
medley of horse and rider kicking on the ground a few
yards away from him. He drew near to investigate. The
rider scrambled out and bolted. And the toreadors running
up with their cloaks, drew off the bull. He went caracoling
round, charging at more silk-lined rags.
Meanwhile an attendant had got the horse on its feet again,
and was leading it totteringly into the gangway and round
to the exit, under the Authorities. The horse crawled slowly.
The bull, running from pink cloak to red cloak, rag to rag,
and never catching anything, was getting excited, impatient
of the rag game. He jumped once more into the gangway
and started running, alas, on towards where the wounded
horse was still limping its way to the exit.
Kate knew what was coming. Before she could look
away, the bull had charged on the limping horse from behind,
the attendants had fled, the horse was up-ended absurdly,
one of the bull’s horns between his hind legs and
deep in his inside. Down went the horse, collapsing in front,
but his rear was still heaved up, with the bull’s horn working
vigorously up and down inside him, while he lay on his neck
all twisted. And a huge heap of bowels coming out. And
a nauseous stench. And the cries of pleased amusement
among the crowd.
This pretty event took place on Kate’s side of the ring,
and not far from where she sat, below her. Most of the
people were on their feet craning to look down over the edge
to watch the conclusion of this delightful spectacle.
Kate knew if she saw any more she would go into hysterics.
She was getting beside herself.
She looked swiftly at Owen, who looked like a guilty boy
spell-bound.
“I’m going!” she said, rising.
“Going!” he cried, in wonder and dismay, his flushed
face and his bald flushed forehead a picture, looking up at
her.
But she had already turned, and was hurrying away towards
the mouth of the exit-tunnel.
Owen came running after her, flustered, and drawn in all
directions.
“Really going!” he said in chagrin, as she came to the
high, vaulted exit-tunnel.
“I must. I’ve got to get out,” she cried. “Don’t you
come.”
“Really!” he echoed, torn all ways.
The scene was creating a very hostile attitude in the audience.
To leave the bull-fight is a national insult.
“Don’t come! Really! I shall take a tram-car,” she
said hurriedly.
“Really! Do you really think you’ll be all right?”
“Perfectly. You stay. Goodbye! I can’t smell any more
of this stink.”
He turned like Orpheus looking back into hell, and wavering
made towards his seat again.
It was not so easy, because many people were now on their
feet and crowding to the exit vault. The rain which had
sputtered a few drops suddenly fell in a downward splash.
People were crowding to shelter; but Owen, unheeding,
fought his way back to his seat, and sat in his rain-coat with
the rain pouring on his bald head. He was as nearly in
hysterics as Kate. But he was convinced that this was life.
He was seeing LIFE, and what can an American do
more!
“They might just as well sit and enjoy somebody else’s
diarrhœa” was the thought that passed through Kate’s distracted
but still Irish mind.
There she was in the great concrete archway under the
stadium, with the lousy press of the audience crowding in
after her. Facing outwards, she saw the straight downpour
of the rain, and a little beyond, the great wooden gates that
opened to the free street. Oh to be out, to be out of this,
to be free!
But it was pouring tropical rain. The little shoddy
soldiers were pressing back under the brick gateway, for
shelter. And the gates were almost shut. Perhaps they
would not let her out. Oh horror!
She stood hovering in front of the straight downpour.
She would have dashed out, but for the restraining thought
of what she would look like when her thin gauze dress was
plastered to her body by drenching rain. On the brink she
hovered.
Behind her, from the inner end of the stadium tunnel, the
people were surging in in waves. She stood horrified and
alone, looking always out to freedom. The crowd was in a
state of excitement, cut off in its sport, on tenterhooks lest
it should miss anything. Thank goodness the bulk stayed
near the inner end of the vault. She hovered near the outer
end, ready to bolt at any moment.
The rain crashed steadily down.
She waited on the outer verge, as far from the people as
possible. Her face had that drawn, blank look of a woman
near hysterics. She could not get out of her eyes the last
picture of the horse lying twisted on its neck with its hind-quarters
hitched up and the horn of the bull goring slowly
and rhythmically in its vitals. The horse so utterly passive
and grotesque. And all its bowels slipping on to the ground.
But a new terror was the throng inside the tunnel entrance.
The big arched place was filling up, but still the
crowd did not come very near her. They pressed towards
the inner exit.
They were mostly loutish men in city clothes, the mongrel
men of a mongrel city. Two men stood making water
against the wall, in the interval of their excitement. One
father had kindly brought his little boys to the show, and
stood in fat, sloppy paternal benevolence above them. They
were pale mites, the elder about ten years old, highly dressed
up in Sunday clothes. And badly they needed protecting
from that paternal benevolence, for they were oppressed,
peaked and a bit wan from the horrors. To those children
at least bull-fights did not come natural, but would be an
acquired taste. There were other children, however, and
fat mammas in black satin that was greasy and grey at the
edges with an overflow of face-powder. These fat mammas
had a pleased, excited look in their eyes, almost sexual, and
very distasteful in contrast to their soft passive bodies.
Kate shivered a little in her thin frock, for the ponderous
rain had a touch of ice. She stared through the curtain of
water at the big rickety gates of the enclosure surrounding
the amphitheatre, at the midget soldiers cowering in their
shoddy, pink-white cotton uniforms, and at the glimpse of
the squalid street outside, now running with dirty brown
streams. The vendors had all taken refuge, in dirty-white
clusters, in the pulque shops, one of which was sinisterly
named: A Ver que Sale.
She was afraid more of the repulsiveness than of anything.
She had been in many cities of the world, but Mexico had an
underlying ugliness, a sort of squalid evil, which made
Naples seem debonair in comparison. She was afraid, she
dreaded the thought that anything might really touch her
in this town, and give her the contagion of its crawling sort
of evil. But she knew that the one thing she must do was
to keep her head.
A little officer in uniform, wearing a big, pale-blue cape,
made his way through the crowd. He was short, dark,
and had a little black beard like an imperial. He came
through the people from the inner entrance, and cleared his
way with a quiet, silent unobtrusiveness, yet with the peculiar
heavy Indian momentum. Even touching the crowd
delicately with his gloved hand, and murmuring almost inaudibly
the Con permiso! formula, he seemed to be keeping
himself miles away from contact. He was brave too: because
there was just the chance some lout might shoot him
because of his uniform. The people knew him too. Kate
could tell that by the flicker of a jeering, self-conscious
smile that passed across many faces, and the exclamation:
“General Viedma! Don Cipriano!”
He came towards Kate, saluting and bowing with a brittle
shyness.
“I am General Viedma. Did you wish to leave? Let me
get you an automobile,” he said, in very English English,
that sounded strange from his dark face, and a little stiff
on his soft tongue.
His eyes were dark, quick, with the glassy darkness that
she found so wearying. But they were tilted up with a
curious slant, under arched black brows. It gave him an
odd look of detachment, as if he looked at life with raised
brows. His manner was superficially assured, underneath
perhaps half-savage, shy and farouche, and deprecating.
“Thank you so much,” she said.
He called to a soldier in the gateway.
“I will send you in the automobile of my friend,” he
said. “It will be better than a taxi. You don’t like the
bull-fight?”
“No! Horrible!” said Kate. “But do get me a yellow
taxi. That is quite safe.”
“Well, the man has gone for the automobile. You are
English, yes?”
“Irish,” said Kate.
“Ah Irish!” he replied, with the flicker of a smile.
“You speak English awfully well,” she said.
“Yes! I was educated there. I was in England seven
years.”
“Were you! My name is Mrs Leslie.”
“Ah Leslie! I knew James Leslie in Oxford. He was
killed in the war.”
“Yes. That was my husband’s brother.”
“Oh really!”
“How small the world is!” said Kate.
“Yes indeed!” said the general.
There was a pause.
“And the gentlemen who are with you, they are—?”
“American,” said Kate.
“Ah Americans! Ah yes!”
“The older one is my cousin—Owen Rhys.”
“Owen Rhys! Ah yes! I think I saw in the newspaper
you were here in town—visiting Mexico.”
He spoke in a peculiar quiet voice, rather suppressed, and
his quick eyes glanced at her, and at his surroundings, like
those of a man perpetually suspecting an ambush. But his
face had a certain silent hostility, under his kindness. He
was saving his nation’s reputation.
“They did put in a not very complimentary note,” said
Kate. “I think they don’t like it that we stay in the Hotel
San Remo. It is too poor and foreign. But we are none of
us rich, and we like it better than those other places.”
“The Hotel San Remo? Where is that?”
“In the Avenida del Peru. Won’t you come and see us
there, and meet my cousin and Mr Thompson?”
“Thank you! Thank you! I hardly ever go out. But
I will call if I may, and then perhaps you will all
come to see me at the house of my friend, Señor Ramón
Carrasco.”
“We should like to,” said Kate.
“Very well. And shall I call, then?”
She told him a time, and added:
“You mustn’t be surprised at the hotel. It is small, and
nearly all Italians. But we tried some of the big ones, and
there is such a feeling of lowness about them, awful! I
can’t stand the feeling of prostitution. And then the cheap
insolence of the servants. No, my little San Remo may be
rough, but it’s kindly and human, and it’s not rotten. It
is like Italy as I always knew it, decent, and with a bit of
human generosity. I do think Mexico City is evil, underneath.”
“Well,” he said, “the hotels are bad. It is unfortunate,
but the foreigners seem to make the Mexicans worse than
they are, naturally. And Mexico, or something in it, certainly
makes the foreigners worse than they are at home.”
He spoke with a certain bitterness.
“Perhaps we should all stay away,” she said.
“Perhaps!” he said, lifting his shoulders a little. “But
I don’t think so.”
He relapsed into a slightly blank silence. Peculiar how
his feelings flushed over him, anger, diffidence, wistfulness,
assurance, and an anger again, all in little flushes, and somewhat
naïve.
“It doesn’t rain so much,” said Kate. “When will the
car come?”
“It is here now. It has been waiting some time,” he
replied.
“Then I’ll go,” she said.
“Well,” he replied, looking at the sky. “It is still raining,
and your dress is very thin. You must take my cloak.”
“Oh!” she said, shrinking. “It is only two yards.”
“It is still raining fairly fast. Better either wait, or let
me lend you my cloak.”
He swung out of his cloak with a quick little movement,
and held it up to her. Almost without realising, she turned
her shoulders to him, and he put the cape on her. She
caught it round her, and ran out to the gate, as if escaping.
He followed, with a light yet military stride. The soldiers
saluted rather slovenly, and he responded briefly.
A not very new Fiat stood at the gate, with a chauffeur
in a short red-and-black check coat. The chauffeur opened
the door. Kate slipped off the cloak as she got in, and
handed it back. He stood with it over his arm.
“Goodbye!” she said. “Thank you ever so much. And
we shall see you on Tuesday. Do put your cape on.”
“On Tuesday, yes. Hotel San Remo. Calle de Peru,”
he added to the chauffeur. Then turning again to Kate:
“The hotel, no?”
“Yes,” she said, and instantly changed. “No, take me
to Sanborn’s, where I can sit in a corner and drink tea to
comfort me.”
“To comfort you after the bull-fight?” he said, with
another quick smile. “To Sanborn’s, Gonzalez.”
He saluted and bowed and closed the door. The car
started.
Kate sat back, breathing relief. Relief to get away from
that beastly place. Relief even to get away from that nice
man. He was awfully nice. But he made her feel she
wanted to get away from him too. There was that heavy,
black Mexican fatality about him, that put a burden on her.
His quietness, and his peculiar assurance, almost aggressive;
and at the same time, a nervousness, an uncertainty. His
heavy sort of gloom, and yet his quick, naïve, childish smile.
Those black eyes, like black jewels, that you couldn’t look
into, and which were so watchful; yet which, perhaps, were
waiting for some sign of recognition and of warmth! Perhaps!
She felt again, as she felt before, that Mexico lay in her
destiny almost as a doom. Something so heavy, so oppressive,
like the folds of some huge serpent that seemed as if it
could hardly raise itself.
She was glad to get to her corner in the tea-house, to feel
herself in the cosmopolitan world once more, to drink her
tea and eat strawberry shortcake and try to forget.
